The American chestnut has suffered from blight, and many of the native trees have been wiped out. So, chestnuts aren't as easy to find as they once were. But if you're willing to look around a bit, you should still be able to track down a chestnut tree. This deciduous tree is very easy to identify. Fully grown chestnuts usually reach a height of 50 to 75 feet tall and grow long, skinny leaves that are shaped like canoes. The leaves have pointed 'teeth' running along the edge, and are attached to the tree by a very short stem.
But perhaps, the most telling characteristic of the chestnut is the spiny husks, called burrs or burs , that grow in clusters on the tree. These protective burrs are where the chestnuts form.
They typically appear on the tree in early summer and stay attached to the tree until late fall, when the nuts are ready to harvest. Do not confuse the horse chestnut for an edible chestnut tree. Horse chestnuts are poisonous. Horse chestnut trees have large leaves, consisting of five or more individual leaflets that share a single stem; and their husks are mostly smooth, with a small number of bumpy spines. You could easily pick a husk up without gloves. Unlike hazelnuts and walnuts, chestnuts are a fairly perishable product.
They are a high-starch, low-fat food more like an apple or potato than a tree nut. Clean and refrigerate soon after harvest to prevent problems with mold and decay. For short-term storage no more than three months , refrigerate or freeze fresh chestnuts. To prepare chestnuts for long-term storage, dry them following the instructions for walnuts and hazelnuts. Nuts will be rock-hard when dry. Whether storing dried nuts walnuts, hazelnuts, or chestnuts or fresh chestnuts, the best choice is to store them in a freezer or refrigerator.
You also can store them in a cool room 55 degrees or lower if refrigeration is not possible. However, longevity is lower. OSU Extension addresses issues that matter to urban and rural Oregonians. Kym Pokorny, , [email protected]. Ross Penhallegon, , [email protected]. Single-stage chestnut harvester development prototype. Positive aspects: Picks up and separates desirable and undesirable material; it is additionally very easy on the chestnuts. System is expected to be simple and small, possibly pulled by a small ATV or utility vehicle or mounted on a 3-point hitch.
Questions remaining: Can the components be better optimized? Does a short line manufacturer exist to move it to a commercially available system? What would be the cost of the system and can it be a feasible option? The purpose of this acquisition is to conduct research on the capabilities of the machine and gain an understanding if the unit can function under existing or modified U. The unit was acquired such that it can be used in self propelled mode or as a simulated vacuum hose system so MSU and growers can conduct tests, demonstrations, and evaluations on efficiency, ground covers, and ergonomics.
MSU is additionally conducting tests on nut quality between mechanically and hand harvested chestnuts. Commercial harvester options exist and many questions related to economic feasibility, ergonomics, orchard size and production, and willingness to conduct proper orchard management for specific harvester types need to be considered before making a harvester purchase. MSU is positioned to help growers with these questions. Clearly with increased capability and capacity comes increased cost.
Michigan State University does not endorse any manufacturer or type of system at this time. MSU is positioned to assist producers in understanding the operation of as well as the advantages and disadvantages of harvesting system types.
Home Harvest. To maintain optimal nut quality, nuts must be harvested withing 48 hours of dropping and immediately placed in cold storage. Thus, at the peak of harvest you should be able to harvest half of your orchard every day. Ripe chestnuts have a slight shine to their shell. Since the shell is a dark brown color, you will be able to see its shine when you hold it under a light.
As chestnuts get older, they dull and start to lose their flavor. The difference will be noticeable. Check for cracks or other imperfections in the shell. If you see signs of damage, the chestnut may be old and dried out. Avoid any chestnuts that have a broken shell. Also, look for ugly-looking discolorations, since they are probably signs of mold. Moldy chestnuts have white or blue spots that sometimes look fuzzy. If you see holes in the shell, it could be from worms or something else that has tried turning the chestnut into a snack.
Pick up the chestnut to see if it feels heavy for its size. Good chestnuts feel solid and full. They have a certain weight to them, like they would make an impact if you threw them across the room. Try to compare different chestnuts to avoid ones that feel unusually light. The nut inside the shell will be bigger, so you will get more for your money. They also taste better. If you pick up a big chesnut, it should feel heavier than smaller ones.
Squeeze the chesnut to make sure it feels firm. Chestnut shells are very hard, so you will know something is wrong if it collapses in your hand. Hard chestnuts have to be left out for about 3 to 4 days to soften. Afterward, do the squeeze test again. Check for mold, lightness, or rattling to determine which ones have gone bad. Shake the chestnut and listen for a rattling sound.
If the chestnut has shrunken, you will be able to hear it moving around inside its shell. Chestnuts get smaller and more unpleasant to eat over time. Rattling is sure sign that a chestnut has gone bad. Method 2. Wait for autumn to hunt for chestnuts.
Chestnuts start ripening around the end of August. They are most common in September. You might be able to find a few in November as well. Spot chestnut trees by their long leaves and spiky pods. Chestnut trees have long, skinny leaves shaped like canoes.
The leaves have teeth, or small spikes, around the edges. Chestnuts grow in spiky, green pods among the leaves.
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